Heading South…as far as West Sussex

We’re on our way to the coast, doggy friends in tow. This wasn’t what we planned, but flexibility is key in 2020. First we booked Ibiza, then Crete, then Porto, I’d started to lose track. Last week our hotel closed due to COVID and our dog sitter went into isolation for two weeks. I accepted the inevitable even before Boris dealt the coup de grace by extending quarantine yet again. We’re simply not destined to leave the country this week!

South Coast it is then. I’ve heard great things about the dog friendly beach at West Wittering, so we pack our furry pals in the car and set off. Ah, if only it were that easy! The pandemic means you need to book everything – parking, lunch, overnight stay. I feel sorry for anyone who likes a bit of spontaneity – going anywhere right now needs regimental planning. I think I’ve covered everything, no random choices for us.

It’s less than two hours to the coast, so we arrive late morning, and are totally astounded at how many people are already here. The place is packed – does no-one work anymore in this country? Numbers are capped, and you must pre-book parking at a flat fee of £8, but it’s definitely busy. Many seem to have set up camp in the sandy carpark behind the dunes – tents, barbecues, chairs, tables, the lot! Where did you go for your hols in 2020? Oh, I found this amazing car park near the coast.

West Wittering is situated on the western edge of the Selsey Peninsula in the county of West Sussex. The beach is Blue Flag accredited with views of Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight. It’s even got colourful beach huts, it’s picture perfect. It’s believed that this is where the invading Saxons first arrived in the 5th century, after Roman power had dwindled in Britain. No wonder they decided to stay! Today, it’s just staycationers who are invading in their hordes.

Amazingly unspoilt in this day and age, there’s no development in sight on this stretch of coast. But there are dogs…lots of them. In the Summer months the area between groyne 14a and groyne 18 is off limits to canines, but there’s still plenty of space for them to run and swim. Lizzie the Labradoodle is in heaven, and our old boy Henry sprints down to the water as quickly as he ever has in nearly 16 years of existence. By the way, isn’t groyne a great word? It’s a low barrier built from the beach to the sea to prevent erosion, in case you’re wondering.

For lunch, we walk a mile back to the village of West Wittering, where the dog friendly Old House at Home pub gets great write-ups. It’s the kind of place you’d like for your local, light and modern, with a big garden, prompt service and an interesting menu. The dogs get water before we get our drinks, as is right and proper. My cauliflower steak is tasty, and the husband enjoys his pizza, although Lizzie rejects a piece of crust, which is highly unusual.

The village itself is tiny – a church, a school, a pub – but amazingly has attracted celebrity residents such as Kate Winslet, Michael Ball, Nicholas Lyndhurst and Keith Richards. Where on earth did ‘Keef’ go to party in this quiet little place? Obviously it was everyone round to his house!

Back at the beach, the tide has gone out but the visitors keep arriving. There’s a huge queue outside the beach cafe, which makes me feel very smug about my pre-trip planning. Obviously some people do still try to be off the cuff, but I don’t recommend it. Not unless you enjoy queuing?

More paddling, the dogs are ecstatic. I’m now feeling very virtuous about staying in the UK this week, not only am I supporting our economy but I’m making our two doggies very happy. It helps that we’re having a mini-heatwave in mid-September. It’s always pot luck with the weather – if it were raining we would be having a lot less fun.

We’re staying overnight at The Horse and Groom in East Ashling, just outside the South Downs National Park. Dogs are welcome and food is a big focus, hurrah! Sounds perfect, and it very nearly is. We’re warmly welcomed and shown to our newly decorated ground floor room (easy access for the elderly pooch), then we make ourselves comfy in the lovely garden for a few drinks while the dogs roll around on the grass.

In the evening, the garden is really quite magical with fairy lights in the trees. It’s still warm enough to eat outside too, a huge bonus in September. Even better, the menu has us scratching our heads. What to choose when it all sounds so yummy…? I opt for cheese soufflé and fishcakes, and actually manage to hold off long enough to take photos before greedily devouring the lot. Very good indeed.

So what stops this place being perfect? Our bathroom is tiny, and I mean really small. Other than that, if I’m being picky, there’s limited choice for breakfast, but that does seem to be the norm due to coronavirus. My smoked salmon and scrambled eggs is delicious anyway. Our waitress brings treats for the dogs too, so everyone’s happy.

A five minute drive to the Village of West Stoke is next on the agenda. From the car park here we can walk into the Kingsley Vale National Nature Reserve, one of the first designated reserves back in 1952. Some of the ancient Yew trees here are 500 years old – among the oldest living things in the country.

As well as abundant wildlife, the reserve contains Bronze Age barrows, the remains of an Iron Age fort and old WWII training base – unexploded munitions are still found today so best to keep to the paths! By all accounts there are amazing views of the coast from the top of Bow Hill, but our old boy’s hill climbing days are over. No, I don’t mean the husband, he’s still pretty sprightly.

After a delightful (albeit slow) stroll through the rolling woods and fields of the South Downs, it’s time to head for home. We’ve all had a great trip, but Henry needs a rest now.