Travels in the North – Northumberland

The emptiest part of England, Northumberland is the place to escape if you’re not that keen on people, so I’m surprised the husband hasn’t brought me here before now. There are only 62 inhabitants per square kilometre here, compared with an average of 275 for the UK as a whole. It’s renowned for being desolate and windswept, but also extraordinarily beautiful. And cold. A slightly different experience to our planned trip to Nice.

Driving along almost empty roads through uninhabited countryside, the only holdup we experience is due to sheep being herded back to the farm. Crawling along behind them as they leap around the road is the most fun I’ve ever had in a traffic jam. Job done, the herders wave to thank us. It was our pleasure!

There are two iconic sights we want to see here in this northernmost county of England. First, Holy Island, a natural phenomenon – a tidal island only accessible at certain times of day and otherwise cut off from the coast. Second, Hadrian’s Wall, a totally man-made structure stretching right across the country for 73 miles. We both visited as children, no doubt moaning about being bored. How times change…

Driving south from Berwick along the Northumberland coast is a totally different experience to a few days before, when lashing rain reduced visibility to a few metres, and the roads were flooded. Today is a beautiful sunny day, perfect for exploring. We can actually see where we’re going, which helps.

The Holy Island of Lindisfarne has been an important religious site since the 6th century. At high tide, the island covers around 1,000 acres but low tide reveals a larger area of national park, and also the causeway that links the island to the mainland. The local council website details safe times to cross, but unbelievably one vehicle per month gets stranded by the rising seawater and requires rescue. I don’t know why I’m surprised really…

It feels like a long drive to reach the island, but it’s an even longer walk for the line of pedestrians we can see following the ancient pilgrim path marked by poles across the mudflats. There are lots of people braving the walk, and I wish we had more time to do it to. Even driving feels a bit adventurous, thanks to the receding waters. Well, I think so. The husband just rolls his eyes.

On the island there’s an ancient priory built in 634 and a castle that’s modern by comparison, dating from 1550. A scenic circular walk around the bay takes in both, and also the island’s small settlement of around 180 people. They must long for the tide to come in sometimes, because we’re amazed by the number of visitors streaming across from the mainland to disrupt the peace and quiet. Where do they all go and what do they do? There are only a handful of pubs and shops to visit. It’s probably advisable to come to Holy Island outside of peak holiday times. Thank goodness we came early.

We leave the island, marvelling at the long line of cars queuing on the causeway. It feels like everyone who can’t go to Mallorca this Summer is here instead. We’re quite relieved to be leaving! Our next stop is the county town of Northumberland, Alnwick (pronounced Annick just to cause confusion). It’s just a small market town with lots of tea shops, but it does have a major claim to fame.

Built in the 11th century and home to the Duke of Northumberland, Alnwick Castle is better known as Hogwarts. Sadly, it’s closed today, so we can’t take a broomstick riding lesson, I’m sure the husband would have loved that. Instead we wander around the medieval town centre. There’s a small outdoor market going on and lots of pensioners drinking tea in the sunshine. We’re transported back to the 1970s. That’s England for you!

Battlesteads Hotel and Restaurant, our abode for the night, is sadly underwhelming. Continuing the 70s theme, I feel like I’m at the Crossroads Motel. We follow pokey corridors to an empty reception, and are given the key to room 11, overlooking the car park. Our run of luck is broken, things are back to normal. We’re a bit flummoxed by the excellent reviews on Trip Advisor. Compared to where we’ve stayed lately (for a similar price) this is decidedly drab.

But you know me, there are always positives to be found. I take a leaflet about local walks from reception and realise we can do a nice 5-miler along the Tyne river and back through farmland. After a large breakfast and a huge lunch, I need some exercise before the inevitable massive dinner.

Is it just me, or is anyone else humming Fog on the Tyne at this point? Although it’s actually a lovely sunny afternoon, great for walking.

The other good thing about Battlesteads is the food. Their stuffed courgette flowers in particular make me feel very happy, but everything we order is really tasty. It’s just a pity about the service, which starts off being rushed and then peters off into non-existent. It would be nice to be offered more drinks or coffee, but we get fed up of waiting and go to bed early instead. Could do better!

We’re up and about early the next morning, not least because the chef at Battlesteads is in a rush (again) to get the food out on the tables. Breakfast is yummy but not very relaxed. I wonder why they do this? Anyway, we’re happy enough to leave, this hasn’t been our favourite stop.

Lulled into a false sense of security by yesterday’s clement weather, I’m wearing shorts. I’m on holidays after all and the eternal optimist. In fact looking through my case I think I forgot that our trip to France was cancelled. No coat, no brolly, no sensible shoes. Unfortunately, grey skies do not bode well as we head south and inland towards the UK’s answer to the Great Wall of China (sort of). I could be on my way to a serious wardrobe malfunction.

Hadrian’s Wall was constructed on the orders of the Roman Emperor in 122 AD to mark the northernmost border of the Empire. It was made of stone and turf, with a maximum height of 4.6 metres. Amazingly, it only took six years to build a wall right across the country, from coast to coast. Maybe Crossrail needs some Romans!

Although this stone barrier was impressive and manned by military garrisons, it probably wasn’t built to keep out those ‘barbarians’ to the north (sorry Scotland). The wall gave the Romans control over their dominions and enhanced their reputation for great works. In other words, it helped to keep the English folk in line. Crafty!

Exploring the ruins of the Housesteads Fort that adjoined the wall, you can’t help but be overawed by the organisation and workmanship of the soldiers who built these structures so long ago. You may also want to visit the best preserved Roman communal toilets in Britain, which apparently still flush when it rains. Although the image below contains a bit too much information for my liking…the spoons, ugh!

Despite evermore leaden skies, the rain has held off thus far, but as we’re leaving it starts to come down in earnest. Maybe wearing shorts wasn’t the best idea. A visit to Hexham is jettisoned – we can’t bear the thought of a wet and miserable afternoon. Well, we can’t claim to be too surprised. This part of the country is not renowned for great weather.

We’re enjoying our coronavirus-induced staycation. Travel in the UK has many plus points – the scenery, the history, the pubs. But it would definitely have been warmer on the Cote D’Azur!