Monkey business on The Rock

No, I’m not blogging about Dwayne Johnson. It’s day two of our Gibraltar trip and I’m just itching to see those monkeys who’ve made their home up on the Rock! Even from our perch high above the town it’s obviously going to be a long hike to the top. We fuel up on nice, creamy scrambled eggs on the outdoor terrace at The Rock Hotel and prepare for a proper trek.

Turning left outside the lobby, the road starts off steep…and just keeps getting steeper. It’s a cloudy morning, quite humid, so we quickly become rather hot and sticky. The views from the road are great, and no doubt even better on a clear day. The whole of Gibraltar and the port of Algeciras in Spain are spread out below us.

As we enter the Nature Reserve, the landscape around us becomes almost lunar in its barrenness. But look closely and there’s activity here. Little birds are scurrying around, hiding behind the rocks. There are snakes too, but sadly I can’t spot any.

At the park’s Visitor Centre, we pay £14 each and receive a wristband giving us access all areas. Straight ahead of us is the Pillars of Hercules monument. In Greek mythology, Hercules smashed through a mountain to create the Straits of Gibraltar linking the Mediterranean with the Atlantic, leaving rocky remnants at each side. The Rock is the northern pillar. In ancient times, the Pillars were considered to be the edge of the known world.

Climbing uphill towards St Michael’s Cave, it’s clear that there are primates not too far away. Suddenly, there they are, my first European monkeys, or more accurately Barbary macaques. Originally from the Atlas Mountains just across the sea, they have been in residence here for several hundred years at least. Currently there are around 300 in total, belonging to five different troops. I’m amazed by how quickly they move, one of the sneaking up behind the husband just to see if he has any food. As per instructions, we’ve tucked everything out of sight. These animals are cute, but notoriously light-fingered!

Further up the road, close to the summit, more monkeys observe us as we step out onto the Skywalk, a glass platform with vertiginous views. It’s amazing up here, although the husband doesn’t linger, I think the glass floor makes him nervous.

It seems the primates are a bit bored, and decide some fun is in order. A Spanish jogger nearby has taken off her running top and left it unattended. Bad move! One of the monkeys grabs it and scampers off, with a park employee in hot pursuit. Monkey number 2 then feels left out and wonders how he can get some attention… Luckily I realise he has my bag in his sights, and grab hold tightly as he hurtles towards me. A tug of war ensues, but I’m not letting go.

The husband hears me scream and sighs, knowing I’m having some sort of monkey confrontation. Note that he does not come back to rescue me! In the hotel handbook it warns that monkeys sometimes pay visits, so you should keep windows closed. Surely they wouldn’t come in your room, I thought as I read it, but now I’m not so sure. They are fearless and clearly love human interaction. It must have been a long and boring lockdown for them, just like us!

We’re nearly at the top now, but towards us come a gang of around 8 monkeys, rolling around on the road. They look very amusing but I’m also now a little bit scared, and cling on to my bag as we walk on. The trick is not to have eye contact. I’d love to take photos of them playing just like little kids, but I’d prefer to keep my phone thank you.

Going up was hard, but coming down again is no easier, especially when we do a bit of off-roading, and all the while I’m scanning for apes and clutching my bag. Luckily there’s lots to see – more evidence of the long fight to defend Gibraltar. Gun emplacements, old shelters, cannons. Oh, and more monkeys of course. Luckily the ones we meet on the descent seem to be from a more chilled out family.

I don’t trust the little scamps though. They may look calm but I’ve seen how quickly they can shift. We see two tourists feeling nuts to one of the monkeys so he will sit still for a photo, and of course he does – he’s not stupid. I can’t say the same about the humans though. Feeding the apes is illegal and there are signs everywhere. I despair sometimes about how dumb we humans are!

Down, down we go, past the Moorish castle. Dating from the early 8th century, the castle was built after the Moors conquered Gibraltar and then used it as a stepping stone to invade first Spain and then parts of France. The Moors held the Rock for over 700 years and the castle fortifications were a vital defence. The imposing Tower of Homage is visible all over the town. There are some very sweet turtles in the pond there too.

Still going down…what seem like endless staircases take us back into the centre. The people here must be fit, that’s for sure. Imagine bringing your shopping up here!

After our morning exertions, a late lunch at the marina is in order. The sun’s come out and it’s a glorious afternoon. I’ve booked The Lounge at Queensway Quay, and it’s a good job as it’s very busy and several groups, are turned away. We have a prime position on the waterfront, with a friendly young gull for company.

If you’re a regular reader, you’ll know that I am very partial to fishcakes, and the ones I have here are to die for! It was worth the trip for that one dish, although everything else is very tasty. The husband has calamari followed by fish pie, while I pretend to be virtuous by ordering a salad for my main course…with a great big chunk of warm goats cheese in the middle. A light lunch!

Tired and full, we decide to spend the rest of the afternoon beside the hotel pool, apparently the largest in Gibraltar. It’s certainly scenic, and as it’s situated next to the Botanic Gardens, there’s a constant symphony of birdsong going on. One bird is actually wolf whistling at the mostly 60-something bathers, which makes the husband giggle. The views up towards the Rock tell us exactly why our calves are aching right now.

Next day, Gibraltar has one last unexpected treat in store for us. We decide to walk to the airport – it’s a lovely fresh morning and it’s mostly downhill, along Main Street and though Casemates Square and the Landport Tunnel. Then we realise that we actually have to cross the runway, how exciting! I have been on a runway before, as a runner in a Heathrow staff event in the dead of night. This is different though, everyone is just nonchalantly strolling across. Hopefully there aren’t many flights scheduled today, at least not in the next 10 minutes!

Our trip to Gibraltar has been just what the doctor ordered. It may not have been high on my list of must-visit places, but as an antidote to the relentless gloom of the UK media, I highly recommend the Rock for a few days of walking, eating and exploring in the sunshine. What more do you want?