Mondello is a happy accident. We were booked for three nights in Palermo, the capital of Sicily, but reductions to the BA schedule meant that our Thursday flight was cancelled. You can still fly out on Tuesday or Friday, I was told. Ha! One night fewer or two nights more…what do you think I decided, dear reader?
Yes two bonus nights it is, yippee! But rather than extend our city break, why not spend some time chilling by the coast? So here we are in Mondello, about 10 miles from Palermo city centre. Originally a small fishing village in a bay between two rock promontories – Mount Gallo to the northwest and Mount Pellegrino to the southeast, it became popular with well-to-do Palermitani because of its lovely mile-long white sand beach.
The focal point of the bay is the Stabilimento Balneare, or bathing station, out on a pier in the centre of town. Built in 1912 it’s a gorgeous example of Art Nouveau. Unfortunately, the cafe inside is closed due to the pandemic, so we can only admire the exterior.
A lovely tree and shrub-lined promenade runs the length of the beach. There are clearly delineated public and, in true European fashion, paid-entry areas with parasols and sunloungers. The public areas are rammed with Sicilian families enjoying themselves, the private less so. We can’t hear one word of English, or French, Russian, anything but Italian in fact. The tourists here are locals – how very refreshing.
This is a proper old fashioned family resort, as evidenced by some of the arcade games we pass. If it wasn’t thirty-odd degrees, you could swear you were in Bridlington!
On the other side of the road are the Liberty style villas that were built by Palermo’s elite in the resort’s heyday. Unfortunately, some of them are unkempt and uncared for nowadays but you can see how impressive this place would have been back then.
Who owns these houses, we wonder, looking at the high fences and cameras, and why don’t they tidy them up? Well we’re in Sicily after all, where people might have good reason to stay under the radar… Stop taking photos, the husband hisses. He loves a good conspiracy theory!
We’re staying at the Splendid Hotel La Torre while we’re in Mondello – a large, old fashioned 4-star establishment right at the top end of the bay. It’s nothing flash, but the location is stunning, with views that go on forever…from the public areas anyway. As always we seem to have the worst view looking out over the boring gardens at the back. I hate paying extra for a view, especially when there’s no-one else here!
We estimate the hotel’s around 10% occupied, which means lots of space and tranquility for us, but we wonder how it’s making any money (and why they didn’t give us a better view, grrr!) The staff are really nice – I hope they manage to keep their jobs in the current climate. The other big 4-star in town, the Mondello Palace, is still shut down and doesn’t look like it’s opening any time soon.
Masks are obligatory indoors in Italy, but we’re hardly inside anyway, so it has very little impact. I’m getting used to it – phone, lippy, purse, mask, check. Most people here seem to walk around with a mask around their elbow like a fashion accessory, ready to slip on when required – the new normal.
The hotel has a lovely large pool area, where I intend to spend some time topping up my Thames Valley lockdown tan. One thing’s for sure, the UK population has never looked so bronzed before, we could almost pass for Europeans in 2020. Oh so ironic! During our stay, we mostly have the pool to ourselves, which is fab.
Overlooking the pool is one of two watch towers built back in the 15th century as part of the island’s coastal defences. The other tower stands in the main town square.
The hotel has direct access to the sea, and a gate just past the pool leads round the bay to a public Lido with a cafe. If you want to swim away from the Summer hordes on the beach, this is the place to stay.
The hotels in Mondello may be struggling post-Covid, but the bars and restaurants are not. Everywhere is busy, particularly in the evenings. The Sicilians obviously like to stay out late – we are generally heading back to bed when things are at their busiest. No, on second thoughts, we’re definitely not European!
As you would expect, eating and drinking here is a joy. Everything is outdoors, for a start, so no masks required. A large beer is €3.50 which makes the husband happy, and a bottle of perfectly quaffable Sicilian wine is €15. Even with the current rubbish exchange rate of €1.10 (a curse on you, Brexit!) it’s all very reasonable. Cocktails at €7 come with copious free snacks, but let’s be honest, no-one’s coming to Italy to get rid of those extra lockdown kilos are they?
Quality ingredients make even the simplest food taste delicious. A toasted Caprese panini for lunch is to die for. A dinner of squid followed by swordfish is out of this world. As for the pizza… If we end up getting quarantined, it’s worth it, I decide. I’m keeping an eye on Italian coronavirus figures, obviously. At the moment they are still stable. Fingers crossed.
Well, I have to say, we’ve had a fantastic few days in Mondello, soaking up the sunshine and watching the locals enjoy themselves. And those views – spectacular day or night. What a bonus this was! Next stop, Palermo, just down the road. See you there.
Steph's Travels 