So today I’m back in the Big Smoke for a walk, lured by the promise of an Aperol Spritz with friends at the end of it. Go on, twist my arm then! I’m in Battersea, just 3 miles southwest of the City, on the banks of the Thames. Originally a fishing village, then an agricultural area known for producing lavender and asparagus, it was industrialised from the 18th century. What a shame! Nowadays it’s the site of huge redevelopment around its iconic power station.
As Battersea is indelibly associated with dogs, due to its world famous rescue centre (also for cats since 1883, fear not feline fans) I’ve brought along Lizzie the Labradoodle for company. It’s her first taste of the capital and she looks very impressed. Of course, we’ve parked in Battersea Park and there are dogs everywhere, which helps.
We make our way to the venerable Battersea Dogs & Cats Home and I have to admit to feeling very disappointed. For somewhere that does such joyous work, saving thousands of pets each year, it looks like a boring office block! It was originally founded in 1860 and called The Temporary Home for Lost and Starving Dogs (awww!). Since then, it has saved more than 3 million cats and dogs (hurrah!).
I’m not quite sure what I expected really – happy dogs and cats romping around on Battersea Park Road? Probably not. But perhaps a bit of excited barking at least. All is silent, there’s a turnstile to get in, and a rather stern notice about requiring an appointment to enter. But I never judge a book by its cover – great work happens here, just ask Paul O’Grady.
Good news readers – Battersea has its own stretch of the Thames Path skirting the park with views across to Chelsea on the northern Bank of the river. At some point I’m sure I’ll cover the whole stretch of it. At almost 300 km though, it might take me a while.
Today, we pass underneath Chelsea Bridge, built on the site on an ancient ford. It’s here that Caesar crossed the Thames during his invasion of Britain in AD 54, allegedly riding an elephant. The locals were so scared of this unknown beast that they ran away, allowing Rome to gain influence over the country. Shameful!
I’m here to see the long awaited redevelopment of Battersea Power Station. Built between 1929 and 1955 and decommissioned by 1983, it’s one of the largest brick buildings in the world and is considered an iconic landmark. Therein lies the problem, as any developer taking on the site had to ensure the preservation of the station, including its four chimneys. So for 30 years, it fell into disrepair.
Now, though, the site is finally coming back to life. After years of failed schemes involving theme parks and football stadiums, work commenced in 2013 and is due to finish in 2025. It’s hoped that the Power Station will be open to the public again next year, and we’ll we able to admire the interior, considered to be an Art Deco masterpiece. Looks like I’ll be coming back…
We head back to explore Battersea Park. Well, that’s my plan. Lizzie just wants to socialise with the many local canine visitors. The park opened in 1858 in an area previously known for duelling and carousing at the Red House Tavern, a favourite of Charles Dickens. The park was designed to encourage more civilised behaviour, how very dull.
It covers 300 acres including a large boating lake and extensive gardens and woodland areas. At the northern end of the park are the ‘Festival Gardens’, part of the Festival of Britain in 1951 which aimed to restore British pride and confidence after WWII. They are sadly looking a bit shabby and dated now, but at the time they were a huge success. Remember, in the 50s black and white telly was a novelty, so people were easily pleased!
I spot a sculpture by Barbara Hepworth on the lakeside and immediately feel right at home – like me she is a Wakefield lass, albeit a slightly more successful one. Single Form is dedicated to Dag Hammarskyold, the former UN Secretary General who was killed in a plane crash and posthumously awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.
The lake is also home to a huge number of ducklings, cygnets and moorchicks, which is always nice to see. Lizzie is mesmerised by the extraordinarily tame squirrels. They don’t run away from her like the ones near home, and she doesn’t know quite what to make of it…
I’ve whiled away a lovely few hours here in Battersea, I have a tired and contented Labradoodle, and now it’s time for drinks with Lucie and Tom at the Pear Tree Cafe. What more can a girl ask for? See you next time.
Steph's Travels 