Where to walk this weekend…? Well, sometimes the choice is made for you. If you’ve read my blog before you will know how food orientated I am. Last week, chef Rick Stein announced that he was opening his restaurants for takeaway. While I’m not prepared to drive to Cornwall for Rick’s fish and chips, his Barnes restaurant is only 25 miles from home. And it’s right on the Thames Path. Decision made then!
It’s Sunday morning so traffic is light and the Rocks Lane carpark is empty. A path leads from the car park through the peaceful old Barnes cemetery, slowly being reclaimed by nature with its leaning, greening headstones. Eerie at night I imagine but during the day it’s an unexpected delight.
The path leads out onto Barnes Common and along the Beverley Brook. The Common adjoins the largest area of public land in London at 122 acres, so there are neverending dog walks if you are lucky enough to live here. But it’s witnessed tragedy too – Marc Bolan died here in a car accident in 1977.
After about a mile we hit the Thames Path. It’s a lot wider and busier here than at home in Maidenhead but still a great place for a stroll. Opposite they’re putting the finishing touches to the new Fulham football stadium. ‘Take a close-up for your blog’ urges the husband. I’m not sure why he thinks my readers would be interested? I’m not.
I’m not particularly a rowing fan either, but this section of the Thames is where the University Boat Race takes place each Spring (except 2020 for obvious reasons, surely the most boring year ever). The first race between the Oxford and Cambridge boat clubs took place in 1829 and the course stretches for 6.8km between Putney and Mortlake. It’s known as The Championship Course and also hosts other prestigious rowing events.
Exactly one mile from the start is a memorial to the man who founded the yearly Head of the River Race, Steve Fairbairn. The HORR first took place in 1925 and attracts top rowing eights crews from the UK and overseas every March. I’m becoming a bit of a rowing expert – these walks are brilliant for my general knowledge.
Many of the old commercial wharves on the Thames embankment have been preserved and turned into housing, like the Palace Wharf, built in 1907 for marble imports. We also pass the old Harrods Furniture Depository, now flats called Harrods Village. The warehouses were built in 1914 for pieces that wouldn’t fit in the Knightsbridge store.
Next, we pass underneath the Hammersmith Bridge in all it’s green glory. It’s currently closed to traffic due to cracking in the pedestals and I bet local residents are hoping it doesn’t get fixed, it must be so much more tranquil in Barnes right now.
The bridge was built in 1887 to replace an earlier structure which couldn’t cope with the increasing London traffic. The current bridge has struggled with the very same problem. Amazingly, Irish republicans have attempted to bomb the bridge not once, but three times. Happily, the bridge survived and is now Grade II listed.
Looking across the river to Hammersmith as we walk, we admire the harmonious architecture along the banks, and remember past visits to the waterside pubs. Ahhh…
We know we’re on the final straight towards our lunch when we see Barnes Bridge in the distance. Barnes itself, only 5 miles from the centre of London, is another of those suburbs that claims a ‘village atmosphere’. It has a central green, some lovely pubs, independent shops and the London Wetland Centre as well as miles of walking paths. The husband and I are quite impressed.
As we arrive in the village centre, there are two pubs beside the river. The first one, alas, is closed, but the second…I think it’s open, yes, hurrah, it is! The Watermans Arms is doing a steady trade in takeaways on this warm day. It helps that you can stand opposite and soak up the Thames views as you drink. This feels, dare I say it, like normal life!
Fully refreshed, we wander along The Terrace, the address in Barnes from what I can gather. Some of the oldest riverside housing in London can be found here, overlooking the Thames and the Grade II listed railway bridge.
We spot a few blue plaques along the way. Composer Gustav Holst I’m familiar with, but I have to look up Ninette de Valois, who founded the Royal Ballet. I’m going to be so good at pub quizzes in future! Freddie Mercury, Henry Fielding and Rik Mayall all lived here. Current residents include singer Michael Ball, DJ Pete Tong, Queen’s Brian May and Roger Taylor, broadcaster Gary Lineker… but do we spy anyone famous? Nope!
Finally, we arrive at our ultimate destination. Rick Stein is an absolute favourite of mine – food and travel, what’s not to like? Hopefully he won’t let us down today. His Barnes restaurant is right on the river, inside a lovely vine-clad courtyard. Unfortunately, we’re told, the man himself isn’t here, he’s in Australia.
Granted, £14 for takeaway fish and chips is a bit steep. My Dad guffaws when I tell him – £6.50 is what he pays at his fave chippy up North. But this is Rick’s…and it includes mushy peas and tartare sauce. Let’s face it – after 5 miles of walking we’re ravenous so we’d pay whatever.
We take our expensive parcel, from which delicious smells are wafting, and leg it at top speed along a nearby alleyway towards Barnes Green in the centre of the village. It feels like a long way – we’re starving! We grab a bench amongst the sunbathers, family groups, dogs, everyone in Barnes it seems, and rip open the paper. For a while, there is an appreciative silence… Pricey, yes, but worth every penny if you ask me. No disappointments from Rick, thank goodness for that. Padstow here we come!
As we head back across Barnes Common to the car, the husband is full of praise for my walk planning today. Beer and gourmet food will clearly now be expected at the end of each outing. During current conditions, that’s a big ask. Better get googling!
Steph's Travels 