More than just bikes in Girona

We went to a Spanish restaurant this week and it made me long for the currently forbidden pleasure of nibbling tapas with sangria in the Spanish sun. As the days get shorter it’s a perfect time to visit España and feast on padron peppers. Let’s go back to the golden days of Autumn 2019 when we could actually do that.

The husband has wanted to visit Girona, otherwise known as cycle nirvana, for a while now. When several hundred professional cyclists and triathletes base themselves in one place, you know there must be bike magic up every hill and round every corner. As you know, I believe in something for everyone when travelling. Girona also has an amazing medieval heritage. Bikes for him, history for me, and food for both of us – perfect.

Located about 100km north of Barcelona in the region of Catalonia, Girona has a population of around 100,000 people, so it’s not a huge place. The River Onyar flows through the middle of the city, with the medieval Old Town to the east and the modern commercial centre to the west. The most well-known views of Girona focus on the colourful facades of the buildings along the river, admittedly very photogenic, but there’s much more on offer here…

This trip is a bit different for us in that there are no direct flights from Heathrow, so we’re leaving the dogs with my parents in Yorkshire and flying with Jet2 from Leeds Bradford Airport. This means, gulp, flying economy. How will the husband cope with no frills? First of all, though, we have to get from the car park to the terminal, which is proving difficult. It’s 4am, pitch black, and there’s no lighting or signage to be seen anywhere. This is not a great start. By the time we get to departures I need a drink, regardless of the hour!

Aside from complaining about back ache from the very hard and upright seats, and turning his nose up at the breakfast bap I’ve pre-ordered for him, the husband copes pretty well with the flight. Everything goes to plan and we’re soon in a cab on the way to our hotel. Phew! We’re staying at the Hotel Museu Llegendes de Girona, which is really not a particularly snappy name for a hotel, but it’s very pleasant without being stand-out.

Location-wise, we are on the edge of the Old Town, and I’m keen to get out and explore, while the husband is intent upon some famous cyclist spotting. I’m not sure how he expects to recognise people wearing helmets and glasses but he’s happy so I keep quiet. Just steps away from our hotel we pass the impressive Basilica de Sant Feliu, which dates from the 12th century.

Further along the street, though, the monumental Cathedral overshadows everything. Construction of this huge building began in the 11th century. With a nave measuring 23 metres, it’s second in size only to St Peter’s in Rome. It towers above the city and can be seen wherever you go.

The Old Town is, as you’d expect, a wonderful warren of winding streets and staircases, full of shady squares with pavement cafes and unusual shops. Just my kind of place. We sit under a tree to have a drink and watch the world go by. Alas, there’s some huge bird in there just waiting for the husband to sit down before it empties its bowels all over him. I try not to laugh at the absolute horror on his face. It’s good luck, after all, and bodes well for the rest of our trip…once he’s recovered and changed his clothes!

An absolute must-do when in Girona is walking along the remarkably preserved medieval city walls. Now, I love an old wall. The husband has pretty much resigned himself to the fact that any old wall must be climbed on, walked along, admired, photographed. To him, it’s just mouldy old stones. But the ancient city walls of Girona are in the premier league of centuries-old fortifications. You will be impressed, whether or not you’re a wall fan.

They’re high, they have amazing views, they march off into the distance as far as the eye can see. I’m totally in my element here, happily wandering along the pathway on top of the walls – the Passeig de la Muralla – taking in this gorgeous city from the best possible vantage point. Originally built by the Romans in the 1st century BC, the walls have been extended and renewed over the years. They’re spectacular.

The husband gets his reward for indulging me in my wall passion – a visit to La Fabrica cafe. Run by an ex-pro, it’s a celebrated cyclist hang out with famously good coffee. We sit outside in the sunshine in St Joseph’s Square and sample a roast. Now we’re both beaming with satisfaction. Full marks, Girona!

The Arab Baths aren’t quite as old as the fortifications – they were built in 1194 though, so they’re fairly venerable! Hidden away in the backstreets they’re a cool and calm place to while away half an hour admiring the graceful architecture inside and out. The entry fee is just a few euros too, so the husband doesn’t complain.

Across the River Onyar in the newer part of town you’ll find the main commercial district. The elegant Placa de la Independencia is a great place to stop for a breather, with galleried walkways containing bars, restaurants and independent shops. The huge Parc de la Devesa is perfect for a shady stroll, particularly when the twice weekly outdoor market is in full swing.

Also on this side of town are the adjoining and extremely user-friendly train and bus stations, if you want to use Girona as a base to see more of fascinating Catalonia. We did a couple of day trips on the bus, firstly to the attractive inland town of Torroella de Montgri. Much as I would love to tell you about the place, we were visiting friends so we spent our time there mostly drinking wine. Thanks again Jayne and Paul for your hospitality!

We also visited L’Estartit on the coast, a lovely little resort with the most ginormous stretch of beach. This was a fishing village until the Costa Brava tourism boom of the 60s. Nowadays it’s popular with divers because of the abundant marine life just offshore around the Illes Medeas. The views from the waterfront pathway, the Passeig Molinet which runs east below the cliffs, are spectacular.

Girona by night is a magical maze of softly lit alleyways and staircases with the cathedral still resplendent above everything. It’s great for strolling and people watching, like so many places in southern Europe where the climate is still kind towards the end of the year. Meanwhile we northerners are forced to hide away indoors by the fire at this time of year. Being able to wander around without a jacket seems such a luxury!

There are some great bars in Girona, both traditional tiled places and more sleek, modern establishments. We like the River Cafe and La Terra in the Old Town but the choices are endless. Many restaurants offer local delicacies, but you can also get pizza or curry should you get tired of tapas. Is that even possible? At Zanpanzar we’re lucky enough to get a table near the kitchen door, which means we get first dibs on the fresh tapas heading out. A good move!

Having dinner one night, there’s a group of very thin young men at the neighbouring table. They’re pro cyclists, hisses the husband. His whispering skills are non-existent. I squint at them, I don’t recognise anyone, but I’m not wearing my glasses (vanity!). So who are they? Oh I’ve no idea, he says airily, but they are definitely pros, look at their physiques. So much for being an expert!

In summary, we may have seen some celebrity cyclists, but we’re not quite sure. We’ve (or rather, I’ve) admired some great architecture. We’ve eaten some delicious food, but that was always a given in Spain. Girona is an absolute gem and there’s plenty of scope to explore further afield if you’re so inclined. A successful trip. Hopefully our positive mood will last through another flight on hard seats with bad food.