The city of Durham in the North of England is renowned for its Norman castle and cathedral, standing high and proud above a loop in the River Wear in County Durham, the Land of the Prince Bishops. It’s also where I went to university to study French and German, more years ago than I like to remember.
Our trip to France is cancelled – the sad refrain of 2020 – so we decide to head up to Scotland instead. Why not have a nostalgic stopover en route? I last visited Durham in 1999, so it’s been a while…
We’re staying at the Hotel Indigo on Old Elvet. The building was originally Council Chambers, and then part of the University – Old Shire Hall was where you went to get your exam results. It was built in 1898 and is Grade II listed. After the Uni moved out in 2012 it stood empty for 6 years, until the careful conversion to hotel began, retaining the stained glass windows, wood panelling and extensive tiling.
It’s a beautiful building and I’m so glad it’s been lovingly preserved. Our only complaint is that the girl serving in the bar looks like she would rather be anywhere else, and she really can’t be bothered to offer us a drink. It’s such a shame, when the Rotunda Bar itself is so spectacular. Perhaps she’s just having an off day.
In a nice touch, our room is decked out in University memorabilia, including an oar over the bed. I tried rowing once, but was an absolute failure, spending most of my time trapped underneath the oar. Running is much less dangerous if you’re a bit weedy like I am. The room is compact but comfy, overlooking the attractive Georgian terraces on the street outside.
Leaving the hotel, I’m pleased to say that Durham isn’t a ghost town. Presumably, the people around us are fellow staycationers who couldn’t get to France or Spain this Summer, but it’s good to see them here boosting the local economy. I doubt it makes up for losing the hordes of international tourists who usually flock here, but it’s better than nothing.
We start our walk, like everyone else, by crossing Elvet Bridge and strolling up Saddler Street to where the castle and cathedral face off across Palace Green. A few of the names have changed – the student favourite for cheesy chips, Saddlers Cafe, is now a shop – but Durham looks pretty much the same as it did 30 years ago.
Durham Castle dates from 1072, in the reign of William the Conqueror, and was the home of the Prince-Bishops of Durham for hundreds of years. In 1832 the castle was bequeathed to the University and has been a student college since then. Yes, some lucky students get to live here! I wasn’t one of them, unfortunately, being banished to Van Mildert College on the outskirts of town, otherwise known as ‘the Poly on the Hill’ due to its 1960s concrete design. Typical.
The Cathedral is directly opposite on the other side of the Green. Construction began in 1093 and it’s the seat of the fourth ranked Bishop of the Church of England (after Canterbury, York and London in case you’re wondering). It is considered to be one of the great cathedrals of Europe.
As a student, marching down the hill to this impressive building wearing a flowing black gown was guaranteed to give you a great sense of occasion. Even as an 18-year-old I could feel the weight of history and tradition – I still skipped lectures with a hangover though.
As I’ve said before, you don’t have to go too far far to ditch the ever-lazy crowds. Walking down the Bailey towards Prebands Bridge we could be the only people in town. Most of the buildings along here belong to the University and therefore currently sit empty. Our footsteps echo in the silence as we tramp down to the river.
The riverside walk from Prebands Bridge to Framwellgate Bridge rewards with the most iconic views of Durham. It’s really quite breathtaking, especially when you think about how long these old buildings have been surveying the landscape from their hilltop perch.
Back in the centre of town, we can see that Durham hasn’t been spared the national malaise of the High Street slump. Many shops here are empty and boarded up, just as they are in other towns and cities across the UK. But the market square still looks lovely.
‘The perfect little city’ is how Bill Bryson described Durham during his travels around the UK. If you haven’t read Notes From a Small Island then I suggest you do – it’s a very amusing portrait. Bill was subsequently invited to become University Chancellor, taking over from actor Peter Ustinov who carried out the role when I was a student. Mum and Dad were thrilled to bump into Hercule Poirot himself when they stayed at the Royal County Hotel for my graduation.
One more clamber down to the riverside is needed so that we can gaze up at some of the least beautiful buildings in Durham. Elvet Riverside is the home of Modern Languages and hence where I spent many happy hours (when I managed to get out of bed). Apparently, students like the quirkiness of the building even now – the rooms are dark, the numbering doesn’t make sense and the heating system has a mind of its own.
Sitting next to it is Brutalist Dunelm House, Durham’s Student Union. The exterior viewed from the riverbank is so dreadfully ugly that I can’t even bear to take a photo, although the inside is really spacious and pleasant. Luckily it’s much obscured by trees when you gaze along the river, with only the quite dainty pedestrian Kingsgate Bridge protruding over the water, so it doesn’t spoil the view. Sights seen and walking done, we retire to our hotel for a breather.
For dinner, we visit Shaheen’s restaurant. As you know by now, the husband is partial to a curry, and this place is number one on Trip Advisor. I had my very first curry here at the ripe old age of 21. For someone who’s obsessed with food, I started out as a very fussy eater. The long list of things that teenaged me refused to eat included cheese, tomatoes, mushrooms and rice. I have no idea how I survived, but I remember eating a lot of baked potatoes!
We’re warmly welcomed by the family who have owned and run the restaurant for over 30 years, although sadly they don’t remember me. The food is fresh and light, in fact we have what we both believe to be the healthiest tasting Indian meal ever. Really! Highly recommended if you’re in the neighbourhood.
I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my trip down memory lane, and I don’t think I’ve bored the husband too much with my reminiscences. And he’s had a curry, which generally keeps him happy. Now I just hope that some University bigwig reads this blog and offers me a job as Chancellor. Well, it worked for Bill! In the meantime, we’re heading for the border…
Steph's Travels 