Vienna then and now

Oh Vienna! If you’re of a certain age you will immediately hear the soulful voice of Midge Ure. You’ll probably hum it all day – I have been since I started writing this, luckily I’m an Ultravox fan. Many moons ago, I spent a year working in this city as part of my languages degree. Now I’m back, almost 30 years later to wallow in nostalgia.

In the taxi from the airport, I naturally want to try out my extremely rusty German on the driver. So, I say chirpily, Vienna probably hasn’t changed that much since my last visit in the 90s. Hmm, replies the driver, you’ll find there are a lot more Hungarians. His tone makes it clear that’s not a good thing. This isn’t going well – when will I learn to keep my mouth shut? I’ll stick to ordering drinks from now on.

We’re staying at the Hotel Austria Trend Rathauspark, just behind the Gothic City Hall. Set in a refurbished 19th century palace, it’s quiet and understated, with a cosy little bar. I do love a hotel bar – the husband says that’s my Joan Collins side coming out. I think he means I’m sophisticated, or does he?

The hotel’s also in a good location, just outside the pedestrianised central district. It’s late December, so the Christmas markets are still in full swing and there’s a big one right outside the Rathaus, complete with skating rink. It’s definitely feeling festive here as we venture out on our first evening.

We’re heading towards the Museumsquartier, a village-like area of bars and restaurants that’s the place to be in Vienna these days according to my research. Erm, well evidently not in December, as everything is closed up. The husband is not impressed – I’m supposed to be trip organiser extraordinaire, so how did I not plan for this? Oh dear! Luckily there’s a cosy looking bar across the road and he’s easily distracted by a beer. A disaster is averted!

We’re lucky with the weather, which is crisp and sunny over the next few days. Good job, as we’re exploring on foot, as we always do. The public transport system in Vienna is excellent, with trams, trains and underground all in good order and running on time, but I’d rather walk if I can, and this is a compact city ideal for surveying on foot.

Most of the main sights here are contained within the Ringstrasse, the wide boulevard that circles the Innere Stadt or city centre. At the heart is St Stephen’s cathedral with its eye catching patterned roof, surrounded by shopping streets, lanes, arcades, squares, churches, gardens and palaces.

You can spend a few days just ambling around this central part of town – it’s extremely easy on the eye. It’s also very clean, and for the most part traffic free, unless you count the horse drawn Fiaker that clippity clop past every few minutes.

We pass the cute little Ruprechtskirche and find ourselves in the Bermudadreieck or Bermuda Triangle, so called because of the many bars lined up along the cobbled streets where you can easily lose yourself. I did just that several times in my youth, but not today. It’s early and they’re not open yet. That’s my excuse anyway.

I’m keen to visit some of my old haunts while we’re here though, especially the Twelve Apostles Cellar, a big underground bar-restaurant where I whiled away many a happy hour drinking a Viertel of wine – this was literally a quarter litre in the days when you just couldn’t get such a large glass of wine in British pubs. Happily times have changed.

I’d often accompany my wine with a Mohnknodel, a huge yeast dumpling with an exploding poppy seed filling. You won’t be surprised to learn that I gained a stone whilst living here! The desserts were much too good. Today, I’m just having a drink and admiring the saintly statues.

I’m keen to see the Holocaust Memorial, erected in 2000 in Judenplatz, the heart of the old Jewish ghetto. British sculpter Rachel White Read intended the rather bleak bunker to jar with its elegant surroundings but it hasn’t been universally popular.

The history of Jewish oppression here in Vienna goes way back to medieval times, reaching a peak under Hitler when almost 65,000 Austrian Jews died in the Holocaust. The monument was purposely not given an anti-graffiti coating so that any swastikas daubed on it would remain visible, but I’m pleased to report I can’t see any.

Another landmark I have to revisit is the Secession Building, just south of the centre. It’s an old favourite and still as beautiful as ever, although it has a great big noisy road roaring past the front entry, which is a bit of a shame.

Built in 1898 the building is a manifesto for the Judendstil or Art Nouveau movement. The motto To every age its art, to every art its freedom appears below the dome. I’m not a blingy person, but I love the juxtaposition of the simple white cube and the rich gold writing. I’m not sure the husband is as enthusiastic as I am though.

We decide to walk to the Belvedere Palace, in the ambassadorial district to the south west of the city. We cross Karlsplatz with its gorgeous church and stroll along Rennweg.

I used to live here, just opposite the Palace grounds, while working as an au pair to an Austrian Count and Countess with seven children. I know – very Sound of Music! Their chauffeur would drive me anywhere around the city, when we weren’t visiting the family castle out in the countryside. Ah, how life has changed. For the better of course, I reassure the husband.

On New Year’s Eve we visit the Naschmarkt, Vienna’s famous street market just south of the centre. Let me be clear, we’re here for the food section. Sorry, but we’re not fans of bric-a-brac or cheap clothes – to each their own – but we’re very interested in food stalls.

After admiring the culinary displays and the gorgeous Jugendstil buildings lining the road, we can’t help but notice that the market bars are full of locals quaffing champagne. It’s 11am – is this a New Year’s tradition for the Viennese or do they do this every weekend?

Well, when in Rome (or Vienna)…we decide to take a pew and join the fun. This is a great place for people watching! Another drink? asks the friendly waiter. I’m shaking my head, trying to be sensible, but he and the husband are already nudging each other and winking. We’ll be here for a while then.

Food in Vienna is hearty. Big portions of meat and fish with mounds of potatoes or noodles is the order of the day. Vegetarians may struggle – as the pesce variety I do quite well. Another mealtime, another cellar – we find ourselves in several brick vaulted venues, the Augustinerkeller, the Salm Brau brewery. It’s all very gemutlich – cosy and comfortable, which is how the Viennese like it. Oh, and the husband approves of the beer too.

When to go? Well, Vienna is lovely in Summer, and you get the chance to visit the Heuriger, the taverns out in the hills selling wine and traditional snacks. I’ll be coming back for that. But Vienna in Winter is quite magical, with amazing decorations and atmospherically lit landmarks. Why not try both?

Vienna is one of those under-the-radar European capitals where you can see and do whatever you want without the inconvenience of massive crowds (how dare they come here and spoil my visit!?!). We’ve had a great trip – it was definitely worth coming back. My German remains rusty and I’ve probably gained weight again with all those spuds, but never mind. I’ll live with it.