It’s been harder than I thought, keeping up a travel blog in lockdown. Writing about past holidays whilst being forced to cancel future overseas trips (three so far, sob!), is just a bit depressing if I’m honest. But I don’t want to give up on blogging. Surely it won’t be long before we get back our freedom of movement. In the meantime, what to do…?
Like many people, I’m feeling lucky to live in a beautiful part of the world, with some gorgeous countryside not far from my front door. Spending time in the great outdoors is making the lockdown a bit more bearable. So I thought I might just take you on some on my favourite run / walk routes close to home. It’s not exotic, but it’s the best I can do right now. Come along and enjoy the Spring scenery!
So, first up, we’re doing my absolute favourite 10km circuit from Maidenhead to Cookham and back. In the sunshine, it’s stunning. We start on North Town Moor, just around the corner from our house, and follow the Green Way northwards. This path runs across parks, fields and along the Maidenhead Waterways from Bray to Cookham, so we’re joining it halfway. Immediately, we come face to face with one of the ‘Guardians of the Green Way’.
The Guardians were carved by local artist Nick Garnett and installed along the Way in 2012. There’s something quite nice about public money being spent on things that aren’t essential, but make the place look more interesting. Don’t you think? I love a bit of whimsy.
The Green Way runs straight on over the fields for 2 miles or so. It’s a lovely flat route through what is currently an ocean of green (hence the name), with several different pathways branching off so you can mix it up a bit. They all end up in the same place. In the mornings or at dusk when it’s quiet, I quite often bump into a fox or deer here.
A wide stream known as the Strand Water (and various offshoots) meanders alongside the path, with cute wooden bridges where it crosses the route. It’s quintessential English countryside, at its best in the Spring sunshine.
As you get close to Cookham, looking up on a ridge to the east is Cliveden, home of the Astor family in the 19th century. Visitors included Queen Victoria and Charlie Chaplin. It’s known chiefly as the scene of the infamous Profumo affair in 1961, which nearly brought down the Government. Nowadays it’s a luxury hotel but the gounds are owned by the National Trust. I’m ashamed to say I’ve never visited, but I’ll take you there as soon as I’m allowed!
Finally, we pass through a long and narrow tunnel of greenery alongside the Chartered Institute of Marketing at Moor Hall, a 19th century manor house, and emerge in the village of Cookham.
We’ve done this route so many times, but still sometimes do a double take at the sheep statues in a nearby garden. Lizzie, my dog, has been known to bark at them. I had to include a photo.
In normal circumstances, this walk would involve a refreshment stop at the Crown, an 18th century pub overlooking the green at Cookham. Today, we just gaze wistfully as we walk past…if only. Many happy hours have been spent outside this pub. Obviously, if I’m running this route, it does not involve a stop at the pub – I’m clumsy enough sober.
We walk past the pub (sigh!) and along a lane to the right which is lined with some very nice (and super expensive) houses to reach the River Thames. We admire some boathouses that are probably bigger than our home. This is a prosperous part of the world. It’s hard not to feel envious.
Next, the path veers right away from the river and takes us through the graveyard of the 12th century Holy Trinity Church. It’s immaculately manicured, as you would expect here in one of the UK’s richest villages.
We walk past the Stanley Spencer Gallery (closed, of course). Spencer was a local artist who painted scenes of the village but was most famous as a war artist in both World Wars and for his works about shipbuilding on the Clyde.
We follow the signs for the Thames Path to the left along a shady lane flanked by more lovely houses and some pretty impressive wisteria.
We plunge back into the trees towards the river, taking care as tree roots have known to attack along this part of the route. Well, that’s my excuse for falling over anyway.
Look to the right and lush farmland stretches into the distance with horses, sheep and cows grazing contentedly. You could be in the middle of nowhere, but this is prime commuter belt.
By this point, I have to say, lockdown has vanished from our minds, along with all the gloom and doom of the media right now. When your surroundings are this lovely, it’s hard to feel miserable.
Back on the riverbanks, the grounds of the Cliveden estate are directly opposite, looking very respectable these days- no showgirls swimming naked in the pool I’m sure! A cottage by the river is allegedly where John Profumo and Christine Keeler carried on their liaison. There’s nothing like that going on now, what a shame!
This walk is great for twitchers, as birds outnumber people by far. The honking of geese is constant, as they gather is huge numbers, but there are also swans, ducks, herons and egrets to be spotted.
As we get close to Maidenhead, the fields give way to some pretty impressive waterside mansions. We get house envy again! Life is so unfair.
Let’s look at the river instead. There just isn’t a bad view, regardless of how indifferent your photography skills are.
As the weir and the northern end of Ray Mill Island come into view, we know we’re reaching the end of our walk today.
We finish our stroll at Boulters Lock, which is usually bustling with boats on a sunny weekend, much as it has been since the late 19th century, when Maidenhead was known as Mayfair on Thames. Apparently it was the place to be for the wealthy and famous after Royal Ascot, as shown in the painting by Edward John Gregory below. Unfortunately, it’s not quite so glamorous now. Maidenhead is a pretty sleepy kind of town these days.
Today, it’s just us. Boulters bar on the island here would be a great place to stop for final refreshments. Unfortunately, that’s not an option right now during lockdown, so off we go to that trusty venue – The Back Garden.
Steph's Travels 