While we’re all in this strange situation of being confined to a small geographical area, I’m going to indulge myself every week by thinking, ‘Where do I want to revisit today?’ And then writing about it.
It will be a great test of my memory, and almost as good as actually going there in the first place. No, that’s rubbish, it won’t be anything like as good. But it will have to do. So, off to Bruges we go…
Bruges has everything going for it. It’s close by if you live in the UK, it’s amazingly pretty, it’s compact and walkable, it specialises in beer and chocolate, it has some great bars and restaurants, the list goes on and on. It’s my parents’ absolute favourite place, pushing York into second position.
We used to laugh at them, ‘Oh, Bruges again is it?’ But after visiting three times and liking it more and more, I can now see us having many more happy visits. I’m officially turning into my Mum!
Bruges is often referred to as ‘the Venice of the North’ due to its network of canals. Forget that – they bear no resemblance to one another. Venice is grand and dramatic, like an operatic performance. Bruges is more human in scale, like wandering around a fairytale.
There’s no doubt that Bruges is popular, and you will inevitably find crowds on the two main squares, the Markt and the Burg.
But I always find that most tourists don’t actually walk very far, so you can experience the town in total tranquility if you explore the back streets. Bruges is totally flat, so you don’t even need to exert yourself very much.
Bruges was once one of the world’s great commercial cities, with a golden age the lasted from the 12th to the 15th century. But from 1500 the ‘Golden Inlet’ connecting it to the sea silted up, leaving Bruges stranded. Happily for all of us, this resulted in the city being perfectly preserved in all its medieval glory.
One of my favourite authors, Dorothy Dunnett, set her ‘House of Niccolo’ series in Bruges in the 1460s, when the city was at its zenith, trading goods from all around the world, including wool from the UK. But it was only rediscovered in the late 1800s, becoming one of Europe’s first tourist destinations. Now, the city of 20,000 inhabitants gets around 9 million visitors each year. Or it did, should I say! Like everywhere else, it will be eerily quiet right now.
For a more modern (and not entirely positive) take on the city, the 2008 black comedy ‘In Bruges’ is about two hitmen hiding out in Bruges. Colin Farrell’s Ray does not like the city at all. ‘That’s what hell is, the rest of eternity spent in effing Bruges.’ I would disagree. You can judge for yourself.
Where to stay in Bruges? I have two recommendations. The Hotel Navarra is a 17th century mansion 5 minutes walk northwest of the Markt. It’s a beautiful building with easily accessible parking and a lively bar.
The Grand Hotel Casselbergh is a few minutes stroll eastwards from the Burg. Three 18th century residences have been joined together to become one great hotel. Parking is a bit tricky as you drive into a car lift at street level and get transported down below the building. Luckily we had my Mini so it wasn’t too stressful for Tony (I held my breath though). Some of the rooms have lovely canal views, which is what you want when in Bruges…
What to eat in Bruges? The moules-frites are legendary, but unfortunately no longer something I can look forward to. I’ve been violently ill after eating mussels, not just once but several times. I was so upset at the thought of having to give them up that I kept on trying but I’ve had to bow to the inevitable. Thank goodness I’m not allergic to the lovely crispy chips with mayo!
Finally, where to have a drink and watch the world go by? My personal favourite spots are Punta Est on the Predikherenrei or anywhere on the Eiermarkt – no eggs for sale nowadays but great for people watching. But every time we go, we find little bars tucked away down side streets. ‘We’ll have to try there next time…’
Well, this has actually cheered me up a bit during confinement (I’m an outdoors person). Hopefully it has you too. Where next, I wonder?
Steph's Travels 
Great post 😁
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