A voyage through Vietnam

It’s a cold and damp March day when I start writing this. Yes, again. So I decided to write about one of my favourite places, Vietnam, in a bid to transport myself somewhere hot and vibrant. Hopefully it will work! No chance of actually getting on a plane right now…

Everyone knows about Vietnam for all the wrong reasons, the long and bitter war from 1955 to 1975 has appeared on our screens so many times, always from a Hollywood perspective, often showing the Vietnamese people in a far from complimentary light. The country really only opened up to travellers in 1997, but since then visitors have been discovering the gorgeous scenery, temples, beaches and food, along with the friendly and welcoming locals. It’s not like the war films!

Tourism is growing fast now in Vietnam. When I visited in 2008 there were just over 4 million overseas visitors. In 2019 the number had increased to 18 million. So if you want to go, do it soon. After the coronavirus has subsided they will probably really appreciate visitors.

We started our trip up in the north, flying in to the capital, Hanoi. As everyone says, the first thing you notice is the traffic, with scooters whizzing everywhere, horns blaring, and seemingly no chance whatsoever of being able to cross the road. It’s scary, but you just have to walk out into it, and somehow, as if by magic, the traffic parts around you. Miraculously, you don’t die a violent death. There are some more tranquil parts of town though. Walking around the gorgeous grounds of the Temple of Literature, built as a university way back in 1070, you feel like you’ve gone back in time.

Equally quiet, but in a more sinister way, is the notorious Hòa Lò prison, also known as the Hanoi Hilton. Originally used by the French colonists for political prisoners, then by the North Vietnamese for POWs, it’s a grim old place. Some extreme torture methods were used here over the years and you can feel that in the creepy atmosphere as you walk around.

One thing we didn’t see whilst in Hanoi was Ho Chi Min’s mausoleum. The founder of Vietnam’s nationalist movement is a hero to many so the queues were huge. He died of heart failure back in 1972, and I’m not sure gawking at a body that was embalmed 50 years ago is really my thing…so we gave it a miss.

After a few days in Hanoi, we had booked a private transfer to take us up to Halong Bay, where we were boarding an old junk for a couple of days cruising around the emerald green waters of the UNESCO heritage area. Now, when I say cruising I don’t mean being crammed in with 2000 other people. My husband vetoed that kind of trip many years ago. There were around 20 of us on the boat. It was select. Tony approved.

Halong Bay is beautiful. Limestone crags tower above the green water. There are islands, bays, caves, floating villages all waiting to be explored. Unfortunately, there are now also lots of tourists, so choose your boat carefully. Paying more may be preferable to ending up on an all night karaoke kind of tour. Or maybe you like that kind of thing?

To get from the north of the country to the middle, we headed back to Hanoi and boarded the Reunification Express for an overnight journey to Hué. Originally built by the French but devastated during the war, the rail link between North and South became a symbol of the two halves of the country coming back together, and so a mammoth effort was made to get the line back in action after the war ended – over 1300 bridges and 150 stations had to be brought back into action. Unfortunately it’s not a luxury train, although I had reserved a whole sleeping compartment so we didn’t have to put up with any snoring or other dubious noises from complete strangers.

We were lucky, we managed to sleep quite well after happily consuming the beer and crisps we’d bought at the station (no dining car) while watching Vietnam slide by. Friends of ours who took the same train woke to find a rat on the table rifling through their bags. But I won’t talk about the toilet. Tony refused to use it, let’s just say that.

We jumped off the train in Hué, the old imperial capital. Located on the romantically named Perfume River, the city has a huge 19th century citadel, complete with moat, temples, palaces, gardens. It’s an evocative place to wander around.

We stayed at the Hotel Saigon Morin, which was glorious luxury after our night on the train. Our room was vast, and breakfast out in the internal courtyard was superb. More about food later. Hué is a city of contrasts, with riverside traders and restaurants specialising in ‘royal’ cuisine. And if you eat too much, or get lost, grab a ‘cyclo’ to take you home.

Hoi An was the next stop on our trek down the country. The town is famous for its tailors, who can copy any garment, in any fabric or colour. You know that favourite skirt of yours? Take it along and get three new ones in assorted fabrics in around 24 hours. For a bargain price too.

Hoi An was my favourite place in Vietnam. It’s charming, laid back, walkable, with great bars and restaurants. One thing you need to be aware of is that food just comes as and when it’s ready. Just dig in and share. It’s all delicious. A Hoi An speciality is Cao Lau noodles, made with water from local springs. Yum!

Again, we stayed in a fabulous hotel here, the Hoi An Riverside Resort, just on the outskirts of town but feeling like a rural retreat. And with a beach club too, so we had a very relaxing day by the sea. We usually make new canine friends wherever we go, and this was no exception. A stray dog decided to hang out with us and look after Tony’s flip flops.

I think it’s necessary here to warn fellow dog owners that the Vietnamese consume (yes, eat) around 3 million dogs every year. It can be quite a shock to walk past a restaurant and see pictures of regal German Shepherds in the window. Avert your eyes! I haven’t eaten any meat for 30 years, I think cows and pigs are lovely animals, but this is on a different level – I share my home with dogs. Consider yourself warned.

Finally we arrived in Saigon, or Ho Chi Min City as it’s now called in homage to Uncle Ho. It’s a thriving metropolis with lots going on. The Independance Palace was the seat of the South Vietnamese authorities, and it’s here a tank came crashing through the gates in 1975 to signify the fall of Saigon to North Vietnam.

The other must-see site is the War Remnants Museum, previously known as the Exhibition House for Crimes of War and Aggression, until diplomatic relations with the US resumed in 1995, and the name was tactfully changed. I was genuinely moved to tears by some of the galleries. The Vietnam War, or American War as it’s known here of course, was horrific.

Outside of the museum, I was shocked to see how many people on the streets of Saigon were missing limbs, a legacy of the land mines liberally sprinkled around Vietnam and neighbouring Cambodia by the US air force. Watching amputees getting around by skate board, and quite often begging for food, was a sobering reminder that the consequences of war can last for decades.

We had to visit the Cu Chi tunnels while we were in this part of Vietnam. Underground tunnels exist throughout Vietnam, but this section measures about 120km. Credited with winning the war for the North Vietnamese, they were actually built as part of an earlier resistance against the French. Exploring them now is claustrophobic, but during the war they were crawling with rats, spiders, ants, scorpions, you name it. And the Viet Kong spent their lives down there for months on end. Persistence wins the war!

In addition to the tunnels, there are some pretty horrific booby traps spread around the area, complete with spikes and spears. The guides explained gleefully how these would be tripped by unsuspecting US soldiers. I remember feeling very glad I wasn’t American! They were rather vindictive in tone about the whole thing, despite the passing of time. Who can blame them?

I’ve travelled a lot, but Vietnam has a special place in my heart. It seems amazing that somewhere should have such an awful, tragic history and yet bounce back to be so beautiful, interesting and hospitable. Highly recommended. Just avoid the dog meat and the booby traps.