Have you read ‘In Search of Lost Time’ by Marcel Proust? Don’t worry if you haven’t, you’re not alone. It’s a biggie – 4,215 pages, over a million words. Quite an undertaking. I doubt if I will read it twice. It’s the French version of War and Peace.
But I do love the idea of food having the power to take you back to certain moments in your life, just like music can. For Proust, it’s a cake that does the trick. For me it was a Polish dumpling or ‘pierogi’, on a recent visit to a local restaurant, Bistro Story.
The word ‘dumpling’ doesn’t really do pierogi justice. They’re not like the suet monsters we had with stew as kids (sorry Mum). Altogether lighter and fluffier and definitely tastier. They are a absolute food highlight of any Polish trip. Although I’m also partial to a potato cake with smoked salmon. It’s all about the food.
I’ve been to Warsaw and Krakow. Gdansk is next on the hitlist. Poland has all of the things I love, in spades. Interesting architecture, friendly people, enthralling history, and food, I think we’ve covered.
I wasn’t sure what to expect when I visited Warsaw, and that was the draw. I love the unknown. I got a real bargain deal with British Airways too. It’s worth searching out those places in Europe that haven’t made it into the top ten. They are usually still lovely, but cheaper and quieter.
I know it’s hypocritical to go around the world and moan about all the tourists, but the hordes do tend to spoil the atmosphere. Obviously, Warsaw is a capital city, it’s not exactly undiscovered, but we quite often found ourselves alone, just walking along quiet streets.
As a result of the WW2 devastation, architecture in Warsaw goes from one extreme to the other – monumental Communist statements to pastel painted palaces which have been lovingly restored. It’s an interesting place for a saunter.
Warsaw also has a castle (above), unfortunately not the 14th century original or even the 17th century replacement. It has some great museums documenting the the extraordinary history of this city right at the heart of Europe – its location as much a curse as a blessing. And it has an excellent bar scene. We checked out a few places on ul Mazowiecka, which is apparently the place to go in the city centre. Needless to say, we were tucked up in bed before the bars turned into clubs, so I can’t report on whether they are any good. As soon as the music gets cranked up, I make myself scarce!
Because we loved Warsaw so much, we booked a trip to Krakow. Now, Krakow is firmly on the tourist trail, but we still found some hidden nooks and crannies. It’s a fact that most people are quite lazy and don’t stray far from the beaten track, which is a huge bonus if, like me, you are prepared to to wear out you shoes in search of somewhere just a bit different.
The tourist trail in Krakow goes from the main square to the castle and back again. After that, your average tourist will have just enough energy left to order an overpriced hot chocolate. We took a seat in one of the cafes and got ripped off by a waitress claiming to have no change. Get into the backstreets of the old town, and you can eat and drink with the locals. Tony enjoyed the beer very much, especially at €1.50 per pint.
Go past the castle to the lovely footpath along the river Vistula, and on towards the Jewish Ghetto of Kazimierz, and you will have the place to yourself, during the day anyway. It’s beautiful, peaceful and a bit sad. We had lunch at a brilliant Israeli restaurant, Hamsa, where I tried my first (very good) Israeli wine overlooking a green square. At night, everything changes and this is the happening part of town. Getting a table for dinner can be tough but the food will be worth waiting for, and the portions will be hearty.
Travel is about experiencing the best, and the worst, of the human race. Personally I think it’s important to see both, to bear in mind what we are capable of at either end of the spectrum. The Acropolis and the Ypres Gate, the Eiffel Tower and the Berlin Wall, the temples at Angkor and the Viet Kong tunnels at Cu Chi. So going to Auschwitz-Birkenau was a given for us.
We caught a pre-booked minibus outside our hotel and drove through immaculate Polish villages and countryside to get to the camps. This must be one of the neatest countries in Europe. And both Auschwitz and Birkenau are well tended, manicured. On a sunny day, they are almost park-like. It makes the stories jar even more. Clearly, it’s a day out that will provoke some strong reactions, but I’m glad I went. Lest we forget is easily said, just look around at what’s happening now in our world. We do forget…
So, that’s Poland for you in a nutshell. From dumplings to death camps, it will arouse your emotions. I’ll definitely be going back.
Steph's Travels 